In "Forza Horizon 5", vehicle modification and adjustment is a relatively complicated process, but through appropriate modification and adjustment, the performance of the vehicle can be improved. Now, we bring you the vehicle modification and tuning guide for Forza Horizon 5 shared by players, we hope it will be helpful to you.
Prologue
It all starts with upgrades, and tuning is polishing. If the upgraded car is a mess, then tuning will only polish the mess. In the end you can only have a shinier mess! Most vehicles can't Taking into account all aspects of performance, they tend either to grip (momentum) or to speed (power). Very few cars can do both, and even fewer can do both at the same time! Therefore, it needs to be based on the vehicle Characteristics to modify to avoid creating a shiny mess!
Step 1 - Get Started
These are the parts that need to be done first
Meet tournament or prescribed competition requirements
In Championship, Rival and Competition events where specific parts are required, always do these first (such as installing parts required for competition regulations). Once all required parts are installed, it is safe to proceed to the next step.
Always install a racing differential. No PI (tier points) required = win-win.
Swap engines, driveline swaps, and intake modifications should be completed before installing any other components. These modifications will change the base PI (up or down) and may change your tuning strategy. If you are unable to upgrade from the stock engine to the target PI or the engine does not have this component, you need to replace the engine or install a turbocharger (SC). Twin turbocharging and supercharging are better options (almost the same as changing the engine), but not always .If you are looking for top speed, then supercharging is the inevitable choice. If you are looking for low-speed torque and acceleration, you need to choose twin-turbocharging. As far as engines are concerned, this is what the store manager recommends!
clutch:
If you want to upgrade the clutch, do so before modifying the handling and braking. Otherwise, wait until the end to use the clutch with the driveshaft and flywheel as a PI makeshift. If not installing a racing version of the transmission, you may need to do it with slower shifting A racing version clutch is installed on the car. If you only play manual, shift speed is important, and upgrading the racing version clutch usually requires much fewer grade points than the racing version transmission.
Gearbox:
If you want to upgrade the gearbox, please do it before modifying the handling. When the street car version of the gearbox is available, you should install it, it is very cost-effective. Especially because it greatly improves the top speed of the old car. Upgrade to the sports car version of the gearbox The box is not worth that much PI, except in some rare cases. The racing version of the gearbox, although it costs more PI, is a very good choice when the stock/street version of the gearbox is not enough. If you only need Faster shifting speed, it is more cost-effective to replace only the racing version clutch.
Step 2 - Upgrade handling and braking
First modify the control to the performance score you need. This will usually indicate whether your modification solution will work properly at the selected performance level.
Racing brakes are essential for tuning/performance.
Sometimes when you only have enough tier points to install springs and anti-roll bars, you can squeeze out more PI by trying to install heavier wheels, increasing the wheel size, installing a roll cage, and/or installing a Forza kit To install racing brakes. This usually happens with cars that are near the PI limit from the factory, or those that you need to downgrade from a higher grade.
Racing springs and dampers are essential for tuning/performance.
In the tight situation of PI, the installation of racing anti-roll bar takes precedence over the installation of racing springs. The racing anti-roll bar still works well when the racing springs and dampers are not installed, but conversely, the anti-roll bar is adjusted without installing the anti-roll bar. Racing version springs and damping can get very tricky.
Racing anti-roll bars are essential for tuning/performance.
In some rare cases, you do not have enough PI to install the racing version anti-roll bar and racing version springs at the same time. At this time, the anti-roll bar should be installed first. Compared with the spring and damper adjustment without installing the anti-roll bar, Just adjusting the anti-roll bar can achieve a much better actual effect than the first two.
By reducing the weight of the car, you increase acceleration, grip and braking. It also helps bring the car closer to a 50/50 weight distribution front to rear. If installing "Racing Weight Loss" exceeds your required grip rating, please Choose low-level mods until you reach the desired level. For most races I would choose the racing version to lose weight, but when the PI is limited I may choose to keep the stock, street car version or sports car version to reduce weight, it all depends PI. When the PI is tight, I will try multiple parts combinations to get the best combination of grip, acceleration, speed, and braking. The type of race the modification is for will determine what I choose to install in a tight PI situation .Grip-oriented modifications need to reduce the weight of the vehicle as much as possible, while power-oriented modifications may not be necessary.
Remember to only install tires that just give you the handling performance score you need.
Tread rubber:
In some older cars, using sports car or racing tires can cause what I call "grip roll," where the suspension has no control over lateral grip and the car stands up on two wheels like it wants to roll. Some Cars do roll (VW Bus, GM Ventura, etc.). In some cases this can be solved with "creative" spring anti-roll bar damping settings.
width:
Tire width has two functions. First, it increases grip, and second and more importantly: it increases the traction of the drive wheels. This is very, very important for rear-wheel drive and front-wheel drive cars! Full-time four-wheel drive can use thinner tires. to solve the problem, but tire width is still important
Hub and Hub Diameter:
Since Forza doesn't differentiate between unsprung and sprung mass, the only thing you have to do is reduce the overall weight of the car. Increasing the wheel size will also increase the weight of the car. It will also change the car's handling and gear ratios. A good rule of thumb The rule of thumb is to keep the aspect ratio between 30 and 45 (if possible). Although changing this option will reduce/increase the weight of the car, the effect of upgrading these is still more looks than performance.
Air kit and appearance:
Racing/Coupe aero kits are required in most display/rival races of Class A and above, except for pure drag racing. Whether Class B and C require modification depends on the specific vehicle and modification plan.D and E-Class generally do not require it.
Step 3 - Upgrade Power and Torque
The idea here is to install all the non-weight-compromising parts first, then the supercharger, then the weight-saving parts, and finally until you can't fit any engine parts in combination within the maximum PI range.
On cars with carburetors, only install sports car carburetors. Racing car carburetors are heavy and should be installed after all other components and only before the oil/cooling system.
Neither the street air cleaner nor the street/road intake manifold will save weight, so they can actually be installed in front of the camshaft. Save the weight saving parts for last.
Upgrading your exhaust system is an excellent way to increase both power and torque.
Upgrading the camshaft isn't always the best option, especially when you need torque. However, in smaller/lighter cars and 4x4s, when the torque may cause trouble for the tires or drive wheels, upgrading A camshaft is a good choice. In a grip-oriented scenario, upgrading the camshaft will also help, since maintaining momentum is more important than initial power.
While these parts do save a bit of weight, they don't impact the PI like the exhaust does.
Despite the added weight (racing superchargers often save weight), the power gained is worth it.
If you're looking for the ultimate lightweight car, install this early, but in most scenarios, leave it until last.
Step 4 - Complete solution construction
Use these parts to fill in the last bit of the PI cap. The hub diameter can also be selected at this step.
Driveline, flywheel and clutch
Many times, you can jump back and forth on both levels of the drivetrain, even though your PI is already maxed out.
Intercooler and engine cooling system
Heavy duty, limited power boost. I rarely install these unless I need to fill up the last few PI points.
The above is the "Forza Horizon 5" vehicle tuning and modification guide for players. I hope it can be helpful to everyone. Please pay attention for more game guides.